by Trish Niece, KTA Member
On October 31, eleven pack-laden travelers from PA, NJ, and CT gathered in Harrisburg International Airport to begin our KTA-sponsored trip to Oaxaca, Mexico. "Are you going to Mexico?" was heard among people who had yet to meet each other face-to-face, and with every "yes" smiles and introductions were exchanged. The trip was ably led by Paul Shaw of Treks and Trails International (and KTA Board Vice President), as a fundraiser for Keystone Trails Association.
After a blessedly uneventful three- leg flight to Oaxaca, we were met at the airport by our "combi" (minivan) for transport to our temporary home. For the next three days, La Posada Dominico in Oaxaca city would be our home-base: a colonial-style hotel, built around a central patio filled with beautiful trees and flowers. A Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) altar and a welcoming, helpful staff greeted us as we entered. After a brief time to get gear to rooms we headed down to the Zócalo, or main square, of Oaxaca to take in the special atmosphere of Día de los Muertos.
Día de los Muertos is the annual Mexican celebration that welcomes back the souls of departed loved ones. Altars are constructed and decorated with cut paper, candles, flowers, incense, photos, and food, all designed to help the beloved souls find their way home for the annual visit. Communities gather in local cemeteries to clean the graves and bedeck them with flowers and other offerings. Families then gather to remember with love their departed family members and friends.
Back on the Zócalo, we settled into one of the indoor-outdoor restaurants surrounding the central square to take in the scene. We were soon discovered by children in costumes carrying pumpkin baskets and asking for coins, the tradition for Mexico's children. As we had just arrived, we had to make do with donating pennies, nickels, and dimes, which seemed to be just fine with the children.
The next two days were ours to explore this delightful city. Oaxaca is perhaps the Mexican state richest in "artesanía"(arts and crafts). The city is ringed with craft villages which specialize in "artesanía,” all of which finds its way into shops in the city. Tapetes, or woven rugs, wood carvings, and pottery are among the most exceptional crafts. We contributed mightily to the economy of the area! We also discovered the wonders of Oaxaca's many churches, museums, libraries, parks, and restaurants. It is a city center made for walking, and we logged many kilometers exploring, including a walk out to the Panteón, or main cemetery of the city, where we witnessed the carnival-like activity outside the cemetery and the decorated graves inside.
On our second night, many of us were lucky enough to join in a "comparsa" (gathering) of people who paraded through the city with bands, costumed children, adults throwing candy to onlookers, and anyone who chose to tag along. Our "comparsa" ended up at a school where we were served typical "muertos" fare of "pan de muerto" (bread of the dead), chocolate, and "agua de jamaica” (hibiscus- flavored water). The children performed, the adults beamed, and we were welcomed into the community in the typical manner of Oaxaca.
Another must-do in Oaxaca is a visit to Monte Alban, the Zapotec ceremonial center (500 BC- AD 750), high upon a hilltop just outside the city. The magnificent structures speak to the architectural brilliance of the Zapotec people, and it is a thrill to wander – and climb - around them.
The "main event" of this trip, however, was a hiking expedition to la Sierra del Norte, the mountain range to the north of Oaxaca City. Within the Sierra, a group of indigenous Zapotec villages has joined together to form "los Pueblos Mancomunados," which offer lodging, meals, and a series of hiking/mountain biking trails that connect them, all in an ecologically-aware way. Our trek began at Benito Juárez (named after Mexico's most beloved President, a Zapotec himself) and continued to the communities of la Nevería, Latuvi, Amatlán, Llano Grande, and ultimately back to Benito Juárez. Highlights of our stay at Benito Juárez included a misty visit to a lookout and suspension bridge, and an invitation by our guide, Amador, to visit his family's home. We were warmly welcomed by Amador's mother, who offered us fresh "pan de muerto" and chocolate.
On each of our hikes, we were accompanied by a guide from the Pueblo. In the Pueblos, each resident between the ages of 18 and 60 has a "cargo" or responsibility which is decided upon during the annual village Council Meetings. Everyone must contribute to the smooth functioning of the village. The guides not only led the hikes, but shared their extensive knowledge of the area. It was my privilege to hike most of each day with our guides and to serve as translator whenever possible, as the guides in general do not speak English.
Each village boasted lovely log cabins with electricity and space to sleep five to twelve people in double and bunk beds. Each room had a fireplace (the only source of heat), a modern bathroom, and a table, chairs and sofa. Most cabins had patios or decks, many equipped with hammocks, which afforded spectacular views of the mountains and countryside. A "comedor," or dining room, is the site of all meals eaten in the village. Our hikes ranged from six to thirteen miles at elevations which at times exceeded 9,000 feet. In the villages, we were treated to delicious meals, visits to the local school, guided horseback rides, hikes to local waterfalls, and a visit to the local "brewery.”
The terrain, familiar in many ways, took us through rolling hills and farmland, along streams with Spanish moss-covered trees and lush lowland vegetation, to semi-arid conditions with cactus and madrone trees, with marvelous views all around. We encountered cows, sheep, goats, burros, and one grey fox during our travels. On one hike, we were treated to the company of Trampas, the hiking hound dog who belonged to one of the guides. We traveled "el Camino Real" or the ancient Zapotec "highway," whose direction is marked by footprints carved into stone.
The weather gods smiled on us until the last day, when a front descended upon the mountains, bringing with it fog, mist, and eventually rain. One intrepid group opted to hike a 13-mile day with over 3,000-feet of elevation gain (reaching over 9,000-feet in elevation). Another group opted to ride with the luggage to Llano Grande, and hike in the woods and around the village while awaiting the arrival of the others. Just after the hikers arrived, so did the rain. As the rain persisted into the next day, our able leader decided it made little sense to complete the scheduled ten-mile hike in such weather, given that the purpose of the trek was to see reputedly gorgeous views. We sadly abandoned our last day's hike, to return early to Oaxaca.
But every cloud has its silver lining! With our early return, we were able to resettle in the lovely Parador Dominico. We proceeded to throw ourselves back into all the things we still wanted to do in Oaxaca. The group thoroughly enjoyed its last full day in Oaxaca City. After a final group dinner at Los Pacos (famous for its "mole" sampler), we retired to our rooms to get ready for a 6:15 AM departure to the airport.
The trip home was filled with excitement: a three hour layover in Newark was reduced to knowing we'd land at exactly the same moment our flight to Harrisburg was to take off. Fortunately, they held the plane, our luggage miraculously ended up on board with us, and we arrived back in Harrisburg only minutes later than expected, to be met by friends and family eager to hear of our adventures.
Everyone thoroughly enjoyed this trip, which combined some of the best sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and hikes Oaxaca has to offer. Many thanks to Paul Shaw and Keystone Trails Association for putting it all together, and to each of the participants for contributing in so many ways to the enjoyment of all.
Click here for photos of the Oaxaca, Mexico trip (taken by Jim Foster, KTA Board Secretary).