By Paul Shaw, Vice President, KTA
Treks & Trails International’s recent hiking trip to St. John in the US Virgin Islands raised an outstanding $5,350 for Keystone Trails Association. Led by KTA President Wanda Shirk and me, a group of ten adventurers enjoyed marvelous weather, uncrowded white-sand beaches, swimming, snorkeling, bird-watching, and some of the best hiking in the Caribbean. Over 60 percent of St. John is a national park; the island is much less developed and less populated than nearby St. Thomas.
Upon arrival in St. Thomas, an open-air taxi whisked our group across the island to the ferry at Red Hook. After a pleasant 20-minute cruise, we landed in Cruz Bay, the only town on St. John. Another open-air taxi took us to Concordia Eco Resort on the opposite end of the island, cautiously avoiding the donkeys and chickens that grazed along the narrow roadside.
Concordia is not everyone’s cup of tea; people who enjoy luxurious resorts and a raucous nightlife would not be pleased! However, for those who enjoy living close to nature, Concordia is brilliant! Our canvas-sided cabins were perched on a steep hillside overlooking Salt Pond Bay, Drunk Bay and a point of land known as Ram Head. The sound of surf breaking on the pebble beach at Drunk Bay was ever-present, and cool sea breezes kept the cabins comfortable in the evenings.
Each morning, we awoke to the sounds of birds--including several species not found on the mainland. Black water tanks mounted on the roofs above the shower stalls were heated by the sun, with water flow in the showers controlled by a garden hose. Solar panels at each cabin generated electricity to power the lights. Fully-equipped kitchens enabled us to prepare breakfasts and lunches in our cabins. Garbage disposal was both simple and effective: we were instructed to toss fruit and vegetable scraps off the cabin decks to the ravenous hermit crabs waiting below. The crabs would instantly descend upon and devour the mango and melon rinds, apple cores, and other produce tidbits.
After breakfast, we hiked the park’s beautiful trails. Each day-hike was unique. One hike connected several gorgeous beaches with Lind Point Lookout and nearby Cruz Bay. Another climbed high into the mountains to the ruins of a mansion rumored to be the headquarters of a rum-running gang during Prohibition. A third hike led us through cactus and dry scrub forest, then past the pristine beach at Salt Pond Bay, the whimsical rock sculptures at Drunk Bay, and the stunning views at Ram Head. A highlight was the Reef Bay hike, led by National Park Service staff. Starting along the cross-island road high above Reef Bay, the trail led through various vegetation zones, enormous termite nests, and the ruins of the Reef Bay sugar plantation, with the NPS guide providing informative commentary along the way. At Reef Bay, a boat transported us back to NPS headquarters in Cruz Bay.
Afternoons were spent swimming, snorkeling, and relaxing by the cabins. We also visited some of the most beautiful and uncrowded beaches in the Caribbean, including Honeymoon Bay, Trunk Bay, and Cinnamon Bay. Several birding enthusiasts joined us on a NPS-guided bird walk early one morning.
In the evenings, we visited the local eateries and soon learned about “island time,” the relaxed attitude regarding serving times. As one of our restaurants boasted on its menu: “Home of the same-day service!” We all agreed that the Indigo Grill in Coral Bay, featuring local cuisine, was our favorite.
Our St. John sojourn passed much too quickly. We reluctantly returned to Pennsylvania, where the waiting cold assaulted our senses. As I write this, the temperature outside is in the single digits! But the memories of fun in the warm tropical sun -- on what is truly one of the most beautiful islands in the Caribbean -- will warmly sustain us until the arrival of spring.
Treks & Trails will offer this same trip in January 2016, though not as a KTA fundraiser. Visit www.treksandtrailsinternational.com for details.